Honeymoon's Over

Well, after some finagling at San Francisco International we flew standby on some earlier flights (numbers 12 and 13 of the whole trip) and got back to Boston a day earlier, after spending a pleasant, if short evening in Portland with the Bartells. This found time will be put to good use, with much sitting around, staring absently at the walls. We hope you enjoyed following our adventures, and sometime soon we'll post pictures and stories on CraterRanch.com.

Cheers,
-K & H

Seoul Food...Not so much

Flight number eight, from Bangkok to Seoul, was slightly delayed, but it wasn't a full flight so we got to spread out a bit. Heidi had a row of four seats to herself. We both slept for most of the five hours. We opted for a room in the transit hotel here at the airport to make the eight hour layover more comfortable. Not something we would normally do (I spent a 10-hour layover in Heathrow on a bench and a luggage carousel at a deserted boarding gate), but we've taken to treating ourselves on this, our one and only honeymoon. The airport fast food is not great, considering the delectable fare we had in Thailand, but the accommodations are better than the strip mall of duty-free shops downstairs. We have about four more hours to kill before flight nine, Seoul to San Francisco. From there, or Portland, we'll try to get our two-day domestic flight changed to something more direct and thereby avoid the overnight layover in Dallas. (Pam, if you're reading this, we will contact you when we have more information.)

-K

Flight Review #8 - Phuket to Bangkok

Once again, Bangkok Airways comes through with the free pre-flight lounge. Nothing like free snacks and internet access to prepare you for several flights and long layovers home (except maybe a Thai massage, which we got shortly before getting to the airport). Heidi is currently looking for similar lounge facilities at Seoul Airport for the eight-hour layover we have there. Fingers are crossed.

So, this morning we stuck our feet in the Nangthong Bay Resort pool for the last time, seriously mulling whether or not to take them out ever again. Eventually we got on our way down to Phuket. It was rainy for most of the day, but considering the good weather we had for the rest of the trip we can't complain. We may post again from Seoul, otherwise this could be the last post until we reach Portland.

Bon Voyage,
-K

Message from the Aquatic Activities Director

Well, it's been a busy few days, most of which we spent on the water. Two days ago we drove down to Phang Nga bay and went kayaking through the mangrove-lined inlets from the sea. We paddled through a natural cave, or "hong," and hiked into another with neolithic cave paintings. Then we drove to another location and hired a long-tail boat to take us around the bay, which was also very scenic and pleasant. But by far the last two days have been the most exciting, with SCUBA diving both days. Yesterday we took a speed boat out to the Similan Islands, which has some truly world class diving. We swam along a coral shelf, with visibility up to 30-meters at least. The water was filled with so many different kinds of fish it was sometimes hard to see. We did two dives and had a great time.

Today we took a long tail boat just a few minutes from the shore and dove down to a sunken tin barge. The visibility wasn't as good as the Similan Islands, but it was still outstanding, and also very unique because you usually need a different type of certification to go wreck diving. Today had some very exciting sea life sightings: a great big jelly fish, huge puffer fish (as big as cats), big schools of yellow-tailed barracuda, lion fish, scorpion fish, and my favorite, cuttle fish!

-K

Food Update

After a few days off of the Thai food wagon, I'm back on and lovin' it. The food here really is great, filled with flavor and not as spicy as you might imagine, although there is spice if you want it. We've had plenty of curry, prawns, and fresh vegetables. Last night we treated ourselves to barracuda fried with garlic and pepper, and tiger prawns as big as zucchini, fried in some kind of delectable lemon sauce.

One thing that's really great here is the oranges; green ones that always taste yummy. They drink a lot of orange juice too, and not just for breakfast. It too, is yummy and fresh. But by far the most enjoyable beverage I've had on this trip is the lemon juice, or more accurately, the lemon shakes. There is nothing more refreshing after a day in the hot, humid weather, than sitting by the ocean with a chilled lemon shake.

-K

Squid on a Stick, Anyone?

The View from up Here

Sorry for the absence of posts, but we've been trying to make the most of the last few days of our honeymoon. A few days ago we drove up to Khao Sok National Park. It was a nice meandering ride through the country, and at the end of the road...elephants! We came to a place where you step up to a large platform, and up onto a waiting beast. Then the guide starts leading the elephant into the jungle for a trek like no other. Guided solely with voice commands, the elephant strides down dirt paths, through streams, and over large rocks and changes in grade. Sometimes it would grab a big piece of vegetation, as big as a tree log, and chomp down. I'd seen elephants before, but sitting astride its head while it moves through the jungle was very different, to say the least. At the end of the ride, we gave our big friend some bananas. I think he liked us.

-K

Flight Update #7 and Dispatch from the Khao Lak Shore

We left Ko Tao yesterday by ferry, and then bus to Ko Samuii International Airport, which has the neatest terminals of any airport. All the buildings have open sides and palm thatched rooves. The first picture shows our departure gate, from which we were trammed out to the runway and our waiting turboprop. A quick 40-minutes later and we were in Phuket. We picked up a rental car and drove (very carefully on the left side) to Khao Lak, where we checked into a nice beach-side place as a crimson sunset was showing it's full splendor.

-K

Nothamburi

While in Bangkok we took a day trip to the town of Nothamburi hoping to get a break from the hustle of the big city and to see how real Thai's live. Nothamburi is to the north of Bangkok and is reachable by water taxi. We hopped on the taxi viewing the sites along the river that runs through Bangkok. Along our journey we saw everything from run down huts with tin roofs and what looks to be rotting wood to upscale stucco-like buildings to ornate temples.

Nothamburi was not much different than many of the neighborhoods we visited in Bangkok. Tuk-tuks were everywhere...but they were not pestering us. Streets were filled with vendors selling all manner of items,, making it challenging to walk down the streets. Dogs & cats were everywhere and all seem to admire Keith (as usual).

The greatest part of our journey to Nothamburi was the food market where all manner of edible, dare I say..delicacies, were on sale. IT was crowded, noisy with piles of raw meat everywhere. Squid, chicken (with the heads on), frogs (that looked like there were alive still), beatles (or maybe cockroaches?) AND live snakes. I absolutely can not stand snakes. Keith was kind enough to tell me there were eels and only after we left did he agree that they were probab;y snakes. There were mounds of curry (red, yellow & green) and baskets of chili peppers.

-H

Did You Vote Yet? An Urging from the Future!

Being on the other side of the international date line, it's already the evening of November 4th here in Ko Tao, Thailand, but the polls are just starting to open there in the States. No matter where you lean politically, how low your opinion of government may be, or what imagined protest you think exists from withholding your vote, there is no civic duty more important than casting your opinion in this, and every election. We turned in our absentee ballots before we departed, but those of you still there in yesterday have a duty to your country to perform. Do it because you can. Do it because it's your right, and your charge. Do it because you lose the right to complain if you don't. But most of all, do it for that feeling you get when you walk away from the ballot box, knowing that you did something important.

Where I'll be: Under the Sea

After getting sprung from the clinic, we set about resuming the aquatic activities portion of our honeymoon. One of the reasons we came to Ko Tao, after all, was because it is a well-known diving center. There are dive operations all over, and the horizon is dotted with boats putting divers in the water. So after resting up a bit we booked a snorkel excursion which dropped us at several sites around the island. The water is crystal clear, and you can easily see many meters to the coral-laden bottom. We saw a couple of small sharks, and many many colorful varieties of fish. At one point we attracted a large school of little fish that nibbled at our fingers, testing our edibility! The trip included a stop at Ko Nang Yuan, three small islands connected by a natural causeway. It's very beautiful, but like much of Ko Tao, is on the road to being over-developed.

After confirming I could muster enough strength to kick, we booked a SCUBA excursion for today. A friendly French dive master took us out in a small group to two dive sites, where we dove on some great rock and coral formations, filled with plenty of fish.

We're leaving Ko Tao tomorrow, moving on to the Andaman coast, but our time here has been well-spent and enjoyed. There was a nice view in every direction, and the people are very friendly, especially at Ko Tao International Clinic.

Paradise found...again.

After our stay in the Koh Tao hospital we decided to splurge and are now staying at a super swank spot. Here are a few pictures of our new digs. I love this place! AND am happy to have Keith back. :-)

Room Change and Health Update

As our audience knows, I had been suffering from a cold for the last few days. The good news is that my cold is dead. The bad news is that what it took to kill it was acquiring a high fever, the kind usually accompanying severe, knee-buckling food poisoning. The night we arrived in Ko Tao, we had dinner at the neighboring restaurant where something, probably the anchovies on top of my curry, made us change our room to the local health clinic. Heidi deserves serious Super Girl points for getting me from a crumpled heap on the bathroom floor to the necessary medical attention. Long story short, we spent all of yesterday and last night at the hospital, where I was pumped full of fluids and antibiotics. We checked out this morning with a pocket full of pills after making a donation to build a new temple. Instead of moving back to our cursed budget resort, we have since moved into an upscale luxury location on the north end of the island. The view is lovely, and so is the flush toilet. Going out to dinner now...I'm thinking pizza.
-K

Ayutthaya

We are a bit behind on our updates. We visited Ayutthaya while in Bangkok.

Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam and home to numerous ancient ruins is located 80km north of Bangkok. During its golden age, Ayutthaya controlled an empire covering most of Thailand. In 1767, after nearly 400 years of prosperity, eveything ended when tensions with the Burmese escalated leaving locals fleeing to the jungle an much of the ancient city in ruins.

The easiest, and frankly the most humbling, way to get to Ayutthaya is via the State Railway of Thailand. A round trip journey cost 35 Bhat per person (roughly $1 US) and takes about 2.5 hours each way. The journey was one of the most uncomfortable trips I've ever been on, but I would recommend it to anyone as it reinforced just how good we have it in the US. The train was jam packed with backpackers and locals. There was no AC, only a few fans on the ceiling and the windows were wide open. I half expected someone to board the train with a cage of livestock. Keith & I were drenched with sweat before the train left the station. As we moved along, several locals walked up and down the aisle selling everything from meat on a stick to hammocks. The scenery outside of the windows was filled with tin shacks with clothes hanging out to dry. When we got out of the greater Bangkok area, the train became extremely crowded, so much so that it was a struggle for all of the vendors to walk up and down the isles. Keith & I gave up our precious seats for an elderly woman and a young woman with a baby. Our journey made me realize why so many people emigrate to the states. Living in poverty in the US is a clear upgrade for many of these people.

Upon arrival in Ayutthaya we hopped on a ferry to cross the Chao Phraya River (3 cents per person) and hired a tuk-tuk to drive us around to many of the ancient wats ($18 for 3 hours). The were all impressive.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkol was our first stop. I thought it was the most impressive. Built in 1357, it was a meditation site for monks returning from study in Sri Lanka. There are some colossal Buddhas each one draped in saffron cloth. It was erected in celebration to mark victory over the Burmese in 1593 when King Naresuan overcame the enemy by slaying the Burmese crown prince in an elephant-back duel.

Wat Phanan Choen is the oldest & liveliest working temple in Ayutthaya. Upon arrival the temple was filled with Buddha worshipers each offering saffron colored cloth which was tossed up into the hand of the colossal 19 meter high Buddha. Hallways were filled with more worshipers lighting incenses and candles and leaving food for Buddha. The rooms on the side of the large hall contained hundreds of Buddha statues.

All the wats were impressive. We stopped after seeing about 6 and asked our tuk tuk driver to return us to the train station. We contemplated a more comfortable air conditioned min-bus back to Bangkok but elected to hop on the train once again. Lucky for us, we caught an express that was much shorter, less crowded and much more comfortable than our morning journey.

We have many more pictures and movies which we can share upon our return.

Paradise Found

View from our beach front bungalow on the island of Koh Tao. Room cost is 500 baht per night (less than $13 US).

35 sand filled strides later...yes that is Keith in the water.

We are off for a beach front Thai massage ($7 hr).

-H & K

Flight Review Number Six - Bangkok to Ko Samuii

We are in the Bankok Air flight lounge before our sixth flight of the trip, this time a 1-hour jaunt to the island of Ko Samuii and I have to say, Bangkok Air is my new favorite airline. Free lounge access, with free food, espresso drinks, and internet access. From Ko Samuii we get a ferry to Ko Tao for some island fun. I'm fighting a head cold, but we are in good spirits, due in part to this fabulous pre-flight location. More from Ko Tao.
-K

One Day in Bangkok

In 2005 I visited Australia. Parts of Australia can get very hot and humid. While in Cairns, Queensland I recall thinking that I would NEVER sweat like that again. I mean, it was bad. My first day in Bangkok I realized that I was wrong.

We elected to visit Thailand during the rainy season. During this time, the skys open up and flood the streets for about an hour a day. The rest of the time it is darn hot and super humid. So humid that after 30 minutes outside you might feel like you just got out of a shower in which you were fully clothed. We actually have rounds of clothing. Those that we wore out in the morning and those that we change into when we get back to the hotel and prepare for the next outing.

We are having a great time though. More stories to follow on our explorations of Bangkok and beyond.

-Heidi

One Night in Bangkok

After what felt like more than 40 hours of travel we arrived in Bangkok at midnight on Tuesday, Oct. 27 (that would be noon Oct. 26th EST). We were quite tuckered as you might imagine and ready for some significant respite.

We grabbed a licensed taxi and headed off to Suk 11, a guesthouse I had arranged accomodations at several weeks earlier. Upon arrival we walked up to the reception area to find it closed. A nice Aussie tourist informed us that if we had a reservation, keys would be left on a bulletin board. I looked. Hmmmm. No keys. So, there we are at 1AM in a totally foreign city with no accomodations.

Being the smart travelers that we are we recalled another guesthouse in the area that we considered booking. I pulled out the trusted Rough Guide to Thailand and located the address and location on the map. We hoofed it to the Atlanta Hotel. While on our way we passed many street vendors selling all manner of items. There was even a Thai woman in a very slinky red dress that wiggled quite suggestively at Keith. Ha! I was really tired and as one might imagine given the circumstances so I gave her a look that indicated my disaproval.

Luckily the Atanta had a room. They asked if we wanted to see it first. Frankly, we didn't care as it was now 1:30 AM and we were in serious need of some zzz's. We took it and hiked the five flights of stairs to the room.

I would consider myself a seasoned traveler and have stayed in all manner of accomodations. I can rough it. But I think there comes a time in one's life where you do wish to have a few comforts. In Thailand, that would be air conditioning and a shower that is clean and fairly functional. The Atlanta did not provide us with these. So, after 4 hours of sleep (our internal clocks would not let us sleep any longer), we vacated the Atlanta and upgraded. Now we are staying at a mainstream hotel and I have to say, it is SOOOOO worth it.

Heck, it's our honeymoon. We should treat ourselves to a little comfort.

More updates to follow soon!

-Heidi

Got Seoul?

We have arrived at Incheon Airport, Seoul, Korea, after an 11-hour flight. We are dry, tired, and amazed at the high-end shopping available at the terminal. There are at least a dozen duty free high fashion stores, and only one tiny market where a dry-eyed traveller can get some eye drops. The good news: I obtained an iPod adapter at one of the four electronics stores, so there is a silver lining. We have about an hour more to kill before our next 5-hour flight to Bangkok, where horizontal sleeping awaits. Our next post will be from there, hopefully after some Z's.
-K

At the San Fran airport...please shoot me!

We're waiting for flight number 4 (out of 13 this trip) to Korea, and are sleep deprived and lacking an iPod adapter. But, we are glad to be on our way, and we had a great time in Portland! Will touchbase when in Thailand.
-K

AND we are off....almost

As you know, I love to travel. In fact, when I moved to the Boston area I declared that I would only be tied to the corporate world for 365 days before jumping on a plane for some grand destination. I was to pay off all my grad school debt and save up enough cash to say "Goodbye USA" and backpack around the world. And then Keith came along. Funny how our goals change. I do not regret my choices. Afterall, now I have a travel partner! So, instead of traveling around the world four years ago, I shacked up with a guy, bought a house and earlier this year got hitched. Now we continue our worldly adventures together.

Next stop....Thailand (via Portland, OR).

At long last, Keith & I are embarking on our honeymoon in Thailand. While we had every intention of carefully planning our intinerary, life, work mostly, got in the way. In true Heidi & Keith fashion, we are flying by the seat of our pants. All I can tell you about our trip is that we fly into Bangkok and have a hotel for the first two nights. After that, who knows where we will end up.

Activities on our agenda include:

• Scuba diving
• Experiencing Thai culture (including massage, temples & food)
• Hiking & kayaking
• Elephant rides
• Good old fashion relaxation

Our journey is broken up into three sections:

1. Boston to Portland OR (Friday, 10/24):Where we will attend a friend's wedding on Mount Hood.
2. Portland to Bangkok(Sunday, 10/26): Where we embark for grand Thai adventures.
3. Bangkok to Boston, via Portland and Dallas (thanks to frequent flyer miles) (11/12).

We will be in Thailand for 14 days. I'll update this blog every few days with tales from our adventures. I we are lucky, Keith may chime in as well.

Wish us luck & feel free to post comments.

Sawat Dii Kah (good bye for now)

-Heidi